Dynamic Movements: The Building Blocks of New School Climbing

One of many products of new-school climbing, there hasn’t been a World Cup competition where athletes haven’t been asked to attempt a dyno. From the most basic jump to laches, here are a few terms and how to accomplish the big leap to sending your project. Understand that the biggest (and easiest way) to send a dynamic movement is if you 100% commit to it. If you hesitate, you lose momentum and focus, causing you to slip, miss the hold, or worse: get injured. Below, we list three forms of dynamic movement to build your base. 

Deadpoint

Using your momentum to generate energy. Less of a dyno, more of a dynamic movement. But it is the foundation of gaining confidence with dynos. The scientific definition of a deadpoint is “the moment when an object’s upward motion stops and momentarily pauses before it begins to move downward, with zero vertical velocity”. This moment almost feels weightless, allowing you to land where you want to. Think of it like a rainbow: the point on top of the arch before it starts to go down. 

When setting up for a deadpoint, straighten your arms, bend your legs, and leap with your feet reaching to the hold you wish to deadpoint to. Typically, when catching, you release your legs but keep one arm on the wall. Deadpoints are also a great way to build confidence in dynamic movements. A fantastic way to dip your toe into dynamic movements is during your warm-up. On climbs that are easier and more comfortable for you, try deadpointing to some holds to build your confidence. Once you gain enough faith to release one hand, you’re ready to release two with dynos! 

Double Dyno

The next level up: a dyno. Similar to a deadpoint, but with both hands. In a dyno, you need to generate enough energy to not only reach the hold, but also need enough grip strength to catch the hold with both hands. Typically, in climbing, it’s beneficial to have your arms straight and legs bent to allow your legs to prevent you from falling. If you want to generate more energy, use your arms for stability, swing vertically or horizontally (depending on where the hold is), and generate power from your knees and jump to shoot for the hold. When aiming for the hold, the exact science of a deadpoint applies. Aim the trajectory so that you can land on the hold. Engage your arms and let your legs swing. Use your core not only to control the swing but also to stay on the wall. Send the climb from then on. Similar to deadpoints, using easier climbs as practice to get a feel for the movement can help you trust your body’s ability not only to generate energy but also to catch yourself on landing. 

Running Start

In the name, a running start has you begin on the ground, and you bolt at the wall to generate momentum, allowing you to spring onto the wall and catch the starting hold. This sometimes means using the wall or a volume to smear to help you get higher. The key here is to keep your body close to the wall. When jumping from the ground onto the wall, you must get your body over the foot you land on. Without it, it’ll be harder to grab the hold you’re aiming for, and it’ll be more challenging to maintain your balance on the wall. Sometimes, with running starts, the footholds are so positive that once your weight is over the feet, you don’t need your hands to keep balance. A little more advanced, but still possible through practice and confidence. Running starts, specifically, if you hesitate, you will run full force into the wall. And that will hurt. 

Whether you like them or not, dynamic movements are here to stay. But dynamic movements can teach you a few things as an old-school climber. Dynamic moves help teach confidence on the wall. Learning to trust hand or foot holds that you initially thought were bad. Since you’re learning to make quick decisions in the air, it also helps with your precision when doing movements under tension. It also helps with learning to generate power. Deadpointing a move can be essential to sending a hard boulder or ropes climb. With the new school mentality: when in doubt, dyno it out.