Guide to Climbing Shoe Shapes
Climbing shoes are our connection to the wall. We may use soft, slip-on shoes or stiff, pointed shoes—maybe we prefer laces to velcro, and flat shoes to downturned ones. Or, perhaps our favorite shape is somewhere in the middle, suited for all kinds of climbing.
There are many types of climbing shoes. The options can be overwhelming if you’re not sure what you’re looking for. What was once a regular hiking shoe has transformed into a minimalist tool designed for one thing: climbing!
Whether you’re a beginner looking for your first pair or an experienced climber looking at your options, understanding the differences in climbing shoe shapes will help you choose your next pair of climbing shoes.
Shoe Profile
There are three profiles for climbing shoes. Let’s take a look at them:
Neutral (All Day): A neutral climbing shoe has a similar profile to your everyday shoe. It will be flat but still end in a slight point at the toe to allow more power to be forced there. Neutral climbing shoes are best used in cracks, on dead vertical, or slab walls. This is an excellent option for your first pair because you can start developing technique while still wearing shoes that feel like what you’re used to putting on your feet.
Aggressive: An aggressive climbing shoe has a significant downturned profile and is designed to focus all your power into your big toe. Many climbers grab a size that barely fits to eliminate any excess space. These shoes are meant to be worn only when climbing. An aggressive shoe is designed for use on vertical or overhung terrain, or anywhere you need to rely on tiny footholds. They’re typically not very comfortable to walk around in; That’s okay, though, because they’re designed just for climbing!
Moderate (All-Arounder): A moderate climbing shoe is a mix between a flat, neutral profile and an aggressive style. It’s slightly downturned but doesn’t feature the same banana curve like an aggressive shoe does. A moderate shoe is excellent for those who want a single pair of climbing shoes that performs well on all styles of walls. However, they’re best for vertical and slightly overhung walls.
Climbing Shoe Flexibility
There are also three main types of flexibility in climbing shoes. Here is a look at them:
Stiff: Stiff shoes are suited for beginners just getting into standing on only their toes, or crack climbers, because they can jam into cracks while protecting their feet. The stiffness directly helps climbers avoid using their legs as much when standing on their toes and can be beneficial when grabbing their first pair.
Soft: Soft climbing shoes are designed to be sensitive, helping climbers feel as much of the rock as possible. They’re designed to conform to footholds and excel on smearing. Many experienced climbers prefer softer shoes because they allow them to feel exactly what they’re standing on.
Moderately stiff: This is a mix of the two. It’s a good all-around option for those who want a balance between super sensitive and incredibly strong. Many intermediate climbers enjoy moderately stiff shoes as they improve.
Closure System
Three closure systems are available for climbing shoes. See what your choice says about you:
Slip-Ons: These are the quickest to put on and to remove. However, they lack adjustability. If they are too large, they may slip off during certain moves, such as heel hooking. You must size these very carefully.
Velcro: Velcro is an extremely popular option for those who want some level of adjustability, but also want something easy and quick to remove.
Laces: Laces offer the most adjustability, allowing climbers to tighten/loosen many different areas of the foot. They’re also the most tedious to put on and remove. Laces are very popular among those who want to put on their shoes once and wear them throughout the day.
Shoe Symmetry
Sticking with the theme, there are three options for the symmetry of climbing shoes. While you may not need to think about this when looking for a pair, because most climbing shoe brands have developed shoes to work most people’s feet, not everybody has the same foot shape.
Low symmetry: When the point of the shoes is almost directly in line with the middle of the shoe, all the way down to the heel.
Medium symmetry: When the point of the shoe is slightly set to one side of the middle line of the shoe.
High symmetry: When the point of the shoe is similar to how most feet are shaped, with a point set to one set of the midline.
Shoe Volume
Our last shape to talk about is the volume of a climbing shoe. No, does not have to do with how much space is taken up in the shoe; instead, it’s also about your foot’s shape. There are two main types of shoe volumes you’ll find in climbing shoes; let’s look at them.
Wide (low volume): Low-volume climbing shoes are designed for people with wider and/or high-arched feet.
Narrow (high volume): High-volume climbing shoes are designed for those with narrower and/or flat-arched feet.
Climbing Shoes Explained
That wasn’t too bad, right? While it may seem like a lot, you can narrow down your options once you determine your foot shape and what you want to do with your shoes.
Now that you have your ultimate guide to climbing shoe shapes laid out, what kind of shoes are going to grab?