Rock Climbing Grades Explained (V-Scale, YDS, and French)
If you've ever stood at the base of a route and wondered what "5.10a" or "V3" actually means — you're not alone. Climbing grades can feel like a secret language. At Stone Climbing, we want every person who walks through our doors to feel confident on the wall. So here's your complete, no-fluff guide to understanding climbing grades.
Why Do Climbing Grades Exist?
Grades exist to give climbers a rough idea of how difficult a route or problem is before they try it. Think of them like trail difficulty ratings for hikers — they help you set expectations, choose appropriate challenges, and track your progress over time.
The key word is rough. Grades are subjective. They're set by humans, influenced by body type and style, and can vary from gym to gym and crag to crag. A "soft" V4 at one gym might feel like a "hard" V5 somewhere else. Don't treat grades as gospel — treat them as a starting point.
That said, understanding the systems will make you a smarter, more confident climber.
The Three Most Common Grading Systems
1. The V-Scale (Hueco Scale) — Bouldering
The V-Scale is the standard grading system for bouldering in the United States. It was developed by legendary climber John Sherman (nicknamed "Vermin") at Hueco Tanks, Texas, in the late 1980s — hence the "V” for Vermin.
The scale runs from VB (Beginner) through V17, with V17 representing the current ceiling of human climbing performance. Most recreational climbers spend the majority of their climbing life in the V0–V6 range, and that's perfectly normal.
Here's what the grades roughly feel like:
VB / V0 — The very beginning. Big holds, straightforward movement. If you're visiting Stone Climbing for the first time, start here.
V1–V2 — Still beginner-friendly, but requiring a bit more body positioning and footwork awareness.
V3–V4 — Intermediate territory. Moves are more technical, holds get worse, and you'll start needing real technique and strength.
V5–V6 — Solid intermediate to advanced. Requires strength, flexibility, and problem-solving.
V7–V9 — Serious climbing. Most people at this level have been climbing consistently for years.
V10+ — Elite. Less than 1% of climbers reach this level.
One important note: there is no V18 or higher (yet). The V-Scale is open-ended, but grades above V17 haven't been established by consensus. Maybe you can be the first.
2. The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) — Rope Climbing
The Yosemite Decimal System is used in the United States for graded rope routes — both top-rope and lead climbing. You'll see it written as numbers like 5.7, 5.10a, 5.12c.
The system originated in the Yosemite Valley in the 1950s. The "5" at the beginning indicates technical climbing requiring a rope — it's a holdover from the original classification that ran from Class 1 (walking) to Class 5 (technical climbing). For our purposes, every climbing route starts with 5.
The scale runs from 5.0 to 5.15d. Once the system reached 5.10, it became necessary to add letter subdivisions — a, b, c, d — to distinguish difficulty more precisely. So you'll see:
5.0–5.6 — Very beginner. Large holds, gentle angles. Great for absolute first-timers on the rope.
5.7–5.9 — Beginner to intermediate. Moves become more deliberate. Good footwork starts to matter.
5.10a–5.10d — The famous "5.10 wall" that many climbers spend months and even years working through. Technique and efficiency is greater than strength.
5.11a–5.11d — Advanced intermediate. Requires real climbing fitness and refined technique.
5.12a–5.12d — Advanced. Consistent training, strong fingers, and good movement are prerequisites.
5.13a–5.13d — Expert. Very few recreational climbers reach this level.
5.14a–5.15d — Elite and world-class. These are the routes that make international climbing news.
At Stone Climbing Jacksonville, our lead walls top out at 50 feet, giving you the full experience of working YDS routes at height.
3. The French System — Sport Climbing (International)
If you follow climbing media, read route guidebooks for European crags, or watch World Cup competitions, you'll encounter the French grading system. It's the international standard for sport climbing and is widely used outside North America.
French grades use a number followed by a letter (a, b, or c), sometimes with a "+" to indicate the harder end of that grade band. For example: 6a, 6b+, 7a, 8c+.
The scale runs from 1 through 9c, with 9c representing the current pinnacle of sport climbing (achieved only a handful of times in history).
It doesn't map perfectly onto YDS, but here's a rough comparison:
5 / 5+ ≈ 5.8–5.9
6a / 6a+ ≈ 5.10a–5.10b
6b / 6b+ ≈ 5.10c–5.10d
6c / 6c+ ≈ 5.11a–5.11b
7a / 7a+ ≈ 5.11c–5.12a
7b / 7b+ ≈ 5.12b–5.12c
8a ≈ 5.13b
9a ≈ 5.14d
You won't see French grades on our walls at Stone Climbing — we use YDS and V-Scale like most American gyms. But knowing the French system helps when you're watching competitions, reading international guidebooks, or planning that trip to Europe someday.
Interactive climbing grade comparison chart showing V-Scale, YDS, and French grading systems side by side
Filter by level, or browse all grades side by side.
Bouldering vs. Rope Climbing Grades: Are They Comparable?
This is one of the most common questions new climbers ask. The short answer: not directly, but there's a rough relationship.
Generally speaking:
V0 is often compared to around 5.8 on the rope scale in terms of the type of movement required.
V5 roughly correlates to the 5.12 range.
But the comparison is imperfect because bouldering and rope climbing require different things. Bouldering is about short, intense power. Rope climbing adds endurance, mental focus at height, and an entirely different set of physical demands.
The best advice: don't cross-compare your grades between disciplines. Be proud of what you climb in each system independently.
A Note on Grades at Stone Climbing
At Stone Climbing, we set routes across the full range — from beginner-friendly V0’s and 5.6’s all the way up to advanced terrain for our strongest members and guests. Our route setters rotate problems weekly to keep things fresh and to give every climber new challenges to work through.
When you visit, don't be discouraged if a grade feels harder than expected. Grades feel different depending on your height, arm span, flexibility, and natural movement style. The setters try their best to keep grades consistent, but this is an impossible task. Some routes will feel "soft" for their grade; others will feel "sandbagged." That's climbing.
Don’t get stuck on grades. Climb what is fun and appealing to you, regardless of the number on it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What grade should a beginner start at? At Stone Climbing, we recommend starting in the V0–V1 range for bouldering and 5.6–5.8 for rope climbing. Don't skip ahead — building solid technique on easier routes makes you a better climber faster than thrashing on routes that are too hard.
How long does it take to reach V5 or 5.11? It varies widely based on natural ability, how often you climb, and the quality of your coaching. Many climbers reach V3–V4 within 6–12 months of consistent training. V5 and beyond typically takes a year or more of dedicated effort.
Why do grades feel different at different gyms? Each gym sets its own routes, and every route setter has a slightly different take on how hard something is. There's no universal certification for gym grades. As a general rule, competition gyms and newer gyms tend to set on the softer side; some older gyms are known for sandbagging. Just climb.
What's the hardest route ever climbed? As of 2026, the hardest confirmed boulder problem is Burden of Dreams (Nalle Hukkataival, 2016) at a proposed V17. The hardest sport route is Silence (Adam Ondra, 2017) at 9c. These are benchmarks that represent the absolute limit of human performance in the sport.
Should I care about grades? Grades can be motivating tools, but they can also become distractions. The best climbers focus on movement quality, not numbers. Use grades to find appropriate challenges — then forget about them and just climb.
Ready to Find Your Grade?
The best way to understand grades isn't to read about them — it's to get on the wall and feel them. Come visit us at Stone Climbing Jacksonville or Saint Augustine, and our staff will help you find the right starting point for your level.
Whether you're pulling on your first hold or projecting your first V8, there's a route here with your name on it.
Book your visit at stoneclimbing.com →
📍 Stone Climbing Jacksonville — Deerwood Park Boulevard, South Jacksonville
📍 Stone Climbing St. Augustine — 115 Stongway Court, off S.R. 207 by Epic Theater.
Have questions about grades or what to work on next? Ask our crew during your next session — we love talking climbing.